Like all judicious examples of iterative design, the Rolex Datejust has gradually progressed over 80 years. Commonplace in comparable worlds, the most decorated design examples avoid bold departures in favour of graceful transitions. This method could describe the entirety of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf's masterstroke, solidifying a legacy and an enduring vision.

The Datejust arrived in 1945 as the first automatic wristwatch with a date window that advanced at midnight. It was designed to be worn daily, with reliability, water resistance, and precision delivered flawlessly. With the Oyster case for durability, a perpetual movement for effortless winding, and that signature date magnifier—the Cyclops—applicable daily use was and has remained flawless. It has graced the wrists of world leaders, cultural icons, and everyday people alike, advancing with each generation while seamlessly serving both the present and the future.

Reference 16030: The Quickset (1970s-1980s)

The 16030 arrived in 1977 and is considered the first evolution in the Datejust's lineage. Most notably, the calibre is upgraded from the older 15 series to the 3035, introducing two features still in present-day models. The first is the ability to quickset the date function, a user-conscious addition significantly advancing its utility. The second affects the beat rate, progressing from a leisurely 19,800 vph to a smooth 28,800 vph, achieving the revered 'Rolex sweep' so often colloquially referenced. This piece dates from 1981 and features the ever-classic, quintessential silver dial with jubilee configuration.

Reference 16234: The Calibre 3135 (1980s-2000s)

The 16234 is often considered the Goldilocks of vintage Rolex, blending 20th-century charm with modern watchmaking advancements. Most notably, it was the last reference to feature the classic, satin-finished pointed lugs case before the design changed in its successor. It features a highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, setting the gold standard for all future creations. Beneath this improved crystal are wider, chunkier, and more faceted baton markers, which, when paired with its white gold fluted bezel—denoted by the ‘3’ in the reference for the fluted bezel and ‘4’ for white gold—strongly reflect the contemporary status of the humble Datejust and the watchmaker during the nineties. And then there is the calibre 3135. Powering numerous staples of the catalogue for over 30 years, it offers improved shock and temperature resistance whilst increasing the jewel count to 31. Many watchmakers refer to this calibre as the finest workhorse movement ever produced. The flat white dial of this early nineties 16234 symbolically conveys a sense of progression over the classic sunburst silver.

Reference 116234: A New Case (2000s-2018)

The Datejust leaps into the 21st century with the 116234 as the revised case has a thicker lug design, more rounded properties and a polished finish throughout, aligning with the luxe status of Rolex. While the tritium lume seen with previous generations is enjoyed by collectors for its patination over time, the 116234 debuts flawless Superluminova, maintaining a pure white appearance in the light and a brighter, longer-lasting green glow in the dark. Dating from approximately 2006/2007, this example has a rich sunburst blue dial and a white gold fluted bezel, once more confirmed by the use of ‘3’ and ‘4’ in the reference number. Furthermore, the date wheel alternates the odd dates in red and even ones in black. This charming feature is fittingly called a 'roulette date' and has become a collector's favourite. After all, with Rolex, minute variations typically become the most cherished.

Reference 126234: The Calibre 3235 (2019-Present)

The 126234 picks up where the previous generation left off, with elevated evolutions across the board. The lugs are more svelte than previously, delivering a refined appearance and one better aligned with earlier generations. After three decades, the calibre 3135 has departed and is superseded by the calibre 3235. That single number difference might not sound like much, but with it comes an increase in autonomy from 48 to 70 hours, a Chronergy escapement, and Paraflex shock absorbers. Essentially, these advancements make the 126234 more energy efficient, adept at handling present-day demands, and aid in its -2/+2 seconds per day accuracy. The lume throughout the newly slimmed and elongated baton markers and the hands is now Chromalight, Rolex's proprietary luminescent material that glows blue. This 2021 model has a sleek, sunburst black dial contrasting the markers and echoes the new case's sensibility.

 

The beauty of the Datejust lies in its consistent styling over the generations. Each reference transition brings advancements, but one thing since 1945 remains unwavering: the infectious allure of the unassuming three-hander from the Coronet—the true definition of timelessness.